The Sweet Palate, a Cup of Joy

This city is a complete contrast to the fast-paced city of Mumbai. There is no rush, no panic; with its scenic beauty and the gorgeous architecture of the pre-independence era, Kolkata hasn’t changed much over the years, and neither has its chai, brewing at its own pace.

The City of Joy, Kolkata, is the earliest known place for chai to make its entry in India. Most of the people in Kolkata still buy their tea leaves from the local shops. At the local tea shops, you will find chai aficionados instructing shopkeepers on their favorite ingredients. 50 g of orthodox Darjeeling tea and 100 g of CTC tea leaves, along with a few strands of saffron: it is common to see people making their blend in the local shops. People in Kolkata drink their chai sweet.

A walk around the streets is filled with an inescapable aroma of tea leaves simmering in water, milk, sugar, and kesar (saffron), inviting you from miles away; the magic is such that it’s impossible not to sip the bhaar cha (chai in earthen cups). The stalls on Elgin Road, Camac Street, and Central Avenue bring vibrancy with mouth-watering puchkas (Indian spiced water balls), jhalmuri (puffed rice with an assortment of spices), and luscious kathi rolls (Indian chapati bread rolled with seasoned meat or vegetables). The food binge usually ends with a hot cup of chai at an adda.

An adda is a day-to-day meeting place, synonymous with the vibe of Kolkata. A phone call with “Chol cha khete ai” (Let’s go for a cup of tea) is heard commonly across the city. At addas, the conversation takes many forms: the latest play at Nandan theater, the Mohun Bagan and East Bengal football match, the editorial column from The Telegraph; the topics are endless. Some lie on the grass and tune their guitars, while some find a new chapter to explore or meditate.

Buy the authentic Kolkata Street Chai from Teabox here.

Originally published on Still Steeping, the Teabox blog, on October 2, 2020. Lightly edited for clarity in October 2026.