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Tea estates

29 stories from Still Steeping, the Teabox journal.

DarjeelingArun Kumar Gomden TeaBox

A Tryst with History

From the first Silver Tips at Thurbo to record auction prices at Castleton: how Arun Kumar Gomden came to name Darjeeling muscatel.

DarjeelingThe Glenburn Boutique Hotel, Darjeeling

The Glenburn Boutique Hotel, Darjeeling

How a tea planter’s bungalow on Glenburn estate became one of Darjeeling’s most loved boutique hotels, told by Husna-Tara Prakash.

DarjeelingA walk through Darjeeling’s tea gardens

A walk through Darjeeling’s tea gardens

A spring walk through Darjeeling’s tea gardens, in photographs: the pluckers, the neighbors, the kids and the landscape.

Tea estatesThe Beginner’s Guide to Winter Flush Teas from the Nilgiris

The Beginner’s Guide to Winter Flush Teas from the Nilgiris

Plucked between late December and January, Nilgiri winter flush teas are aromatic, intense and easy to love. Our illustrated guide helps you navigate them.

Tea estatesWhen King Coffee Bowed Out to Tea

When King Coffee Bowed Out to Tea

A Nilgiris ghost story leads into the history of how blight, pests, falling prices and a gold rush made the hills switch from coffee to tea.

People of teaThat Nilgiris Bubble

That Nilgiris Bubble

A Nilgiris native on the people who left, the people who came and the people who stayed in her small, vast tea district in South India.

People of teaMadam Superintendent and Durga Puja in a Tea Garden

Madam Superintendent and Durga Puja in a Tea Garden

Romita Ray joins a Durga Puja run by the women of Mathura Tea Estate, the Dooars garden her great-grandfather planted, from mahashtami to immersion.

People of teaAssam Diaries: A tour of Halmari

Assam Diaries: A tour of Halmari

A day with the manager of Assam’s famed Halmari tea estate, from the morning plucking charts and the fields to the factory and the afternoon tasting.

People of teaA tour of the Tocklai Tea Research Institute

A tour of the Tocklai Tea Research Institute

A visit to Jorhat’s Tocklai Tea Research Institute, which advises over 1,000 tea estates, from its tasting room and labs to the mother plant of the first clone.

People of teaAssam Diaries: The Jalans at Chota Tingrai

Assam Diaries: The Jalans at Chota Tingrai

At Chota Tingrai in Assam, siblings Avantika and Mrityunjay Jalan are taking the estate organic, making green tea and hiring young talent over seniority.

Tea estatesNepal: Innovation in the high Himalayas

Nepal: Innovation in the high Himalayas

Nepal’s smallholder tea industry offers some of the best bargains in tea, from organic Guranse to Ilam, Kanyam and Antu Valley.

DarjeelingMountain Megabrands

Mountain Megabrands

Almost every great tea comes from a mountain. Here is why mountain regions are tea’s megabrands, and how to use them to explore new teas.

People of teaa worker at Craigmore estates

The Changing Face of Tea Gardens in the Nilgiris

Workers from eastern India now fill the lines on Nilgiri tea estates, as the educated children of Tamil estate workers move on to professions in the cities.

People of teaSocks and Pepper at their home in Coonoor.

Cats, Art, and a Tea Garden

Fiber artist Maya Sara Matthew on trading city life for a slow, unscheduled one on a tea holding in Coonoor, in the Nilgiris.

DarjeelingTea bushes on the slopes of Castleton tea estate in Kurseong, Darjeeling

Castleton and the mystery musk

The story and the truth behind the famous muscatel tea, and the Darjeeling estate that first produced it.

People of teaLife on the tea estate

Reminiscences of life on the tea estate

Over two hours and two cups, Pakhi Bagai shares vivid memories of growing up on the tea estates of Assam, from bow and arrows to elephants at the gate.

DarjeelingNirvan Subba, a schoolboy on Mim tea estate in Darjeeling

Hope and aspiration in Darjeeling’s tea gardens

Nirvan Subba, a schoolboy on Darjeeling’s Mim tea estate, wants to become a doctor so his community no longer has to travel 20 km to see one.

DarjeelingHow is tea made?

How is tea made?

From plucking and withering to oxidation, fixation, rolling and drying: the basic steps that turn fresh tea leaves into the tea in your cup.

DarjeelingThe bungalow on Goomtee Tea Estate in Darjeeling

In the wow zone at the Goomtee cottage

A stay at the visitors’ bungalow of Goomtee tea estate in Darjeeling, its books and pinewood floors, and the staff who make it memorable.

DarjeelingThe Happy Monks of Darjeeling

The Happy Monks of Darjeeling

On the road between Darjeeling tea estates, Anik Basu meets monks who count cash, play ludo and coach football, and visits a monastery built above a shop.

Tea cultureDinah Jeffries on The Tea Planter's Wife

When East meets West

Novelist Dinah Jefferies on a childhood in Malaya, falling into writing, and researching The Tea Planter’s Wife, set on a 1920s Ceylon tea plantation.

DarjeelingMeet the man who created the Darjeeling oolong

Meet the man who created the Darjeeling oolong

Sumon Majumder nearly ended up selling gin. Instead he joined tea, made the first Darjeeling oolong at Namring, and returned years later to help rebuild the estate.

BrewingA balancing act in Darjeeling

A balancing act in the Darjeeling tea gardens

In Darjeeling’s tea gardens, an old 25-paisa coin is still the weight for tasting samples, and one estate uses a Pakistani quarter. Nobody quite knows why.

Darjeelinglove in the time of war

Love in the time of war

How a wounded Chindit soldier fell for a Lepcha nurse, became a planter at Lopchu, and raised a family in the tea gardens of Darjeeling and Assam.

People of teaWhat a Progressive Tea Industry Needs

What a Progressive Tea Industry Needs

Manisha Singh grew up on Assam’s tea estates and now manages 400 pluckers as a field assistant, one of the few women in the ranks of the tea gardens.

Darjeelingjungpana-estate

Conversations from a tea garden

A break-time conversation with tea pluckers at Jungpana in Darjeeling, about bad rains, good harvests and weather that offers no guarantees.

DarjeelingWhat’s the fuss about the first flush?

What’s the fuss about the first flush?

Why Darjeeling’s first flush is so eagerly awaited: when the spring harvest runs, how lightly the teas are processed, and why they fetch top prices.

Darjeelingdarjeeling-spring

A Postcard from Darjeeling: Thinking Spring

A spring snapshot from Darjeeling: a little shop near Goomtee used by tea garden workers, and the flower gardens that mark the season in the hills.

BrewingOrganic Farming

4 common myths on organic farming

A former skeptic asks an agriculture expert about four common beliefs on organic farming, from chemicals and soil health to yield and the taste of organic tea.